Oldest climb in the world.

 

Mont Aiguille

Mont Aiguille was fisrt climbed in 1425.  It had to wait 350 years until 1834 for its second ascent.  The mountain can arguably claim to be the birth place of mountaineering.

Peter Little were there for two reasons .  It is an absolutely fanatastic mountain to climb and secondly the weather in Chamonix was once again uncooperative.  It goes without saying that if you have come to Chamonix for a precious five day climbing holiday you do not want to spend two of them moping around in the rain.  You need to leave and head for the sunshine.

We set of from Chamonix and broke the journey in Grenoble where we climbed on the crag Saint Egreve.  A crag that is basically in the city suburbs.  Despite its quick access, since my last visit about five years ago, the crag had become very overgrown and involved a lot of unwanted bushwhacking both on the ascents and descents. 

Climbing was better than it looks..

 Yet it was a good place to have a shake-down day and a warm up for the next days climbing. We continued the journey down to Mont Aiguille passing through beautiful scenary while travelling on what is an incredible auto-route. We settled into our hotel   the friendly Hotel Au Gai Soleil which is at the foot of the mountain.  The day was finished with a big beer on the hotel terrace  in the evening sunshine.

The next day we managed to drive up a 4x4 track [We were in a Land Cruiser] and  which saved us half an hour.  We were walking by 8.00hrs.  The path follows a lot of long zig zag tracks up through some beautiful broad-leaf woodland for about an hour and a half until you reach the col de L'Aupet.  On the other side of the col we were greeted by a viciously cold wind and despite expending lots of energy it was nescessary to put more clothes on.  Half an hour later we reached the foot of the route.  There was just one other party at the start.

west face with the voie normal

The climb is quite straight forward and after the 1st hundred meters the climbing can be done moving together [essential if you are going to keep to time]. There are even fixed cables in places.  Despite being easy the route passes through some impressive rock architecture, before finishing up a steep gulley which has another cable running up it.  

spectacular rock architecture

Although the cable isn't much use as an aid as it doesnt actually follow the easiest line.  Then suddenly you pop out on the summit plateau and literally into another world - Its a big field, which in the 1950's it had a runway made out of wood on the top.  We dumped the rope and our helmets and strode through the grass and flowers to the true summit.  There was a Guide and his client just finishing a bottle of Champagne. They left as we arrived and we had our picnic all alone fiesting our eyes on the spectacular view.

Summit plaque

Inevitable Selfie

The descent follows a completely different route to the ascent.  It is technically much more difficult too.  Firstly it follows a steep couloir [ very loose and lots of stones]. At its end there are two rappels, the first is  about 25 meters, but exposed to stonewall and the second is about 45 meters.  It goes down into a deep dark chasm which is intimidating.  All went smoothly for us and we exited into the sunshine, picked up the path and headed back down to the car.  

Saying good bye to Mont Aiguille

The next day back in Chamonix, the weather had finally turned good and we profited by heading through the Mt Blanc tunnel, then up the Skyway cable car before making a traverse of the Aiguille du Toule which was in excellent condition.

Dent du Géant

Summit ridge of Aiguille du Toule

Heading to the west face of Aiguille de Toule

On the Friday the weather was still good and now the popular mountain areas were extremely busy.  Yet the South ridge of the Aiguille du Glieres offers  a brilliant solution to the crowded other routes.  It has intersest on snow and rock and you again finish on a deserted summit.

Peter following the south ridge

Near the summit

Picinic on the top with an acceptable backdrop.

On our final day the weather had once again turned.  Although first thing on the morning the weather appereared half decent, the actual forecast was for certain rain.  So what we decided to do was to venture out of the valley and attempt the spectacular Via Ferratta in Le Fayet.  To begin with all was good and we thought we were going to cheat the rain.  This particular Via Ferratta is quite difficult.  It is steep and where its not steep it is overhanging.  Added to which the weather forecast was correct.  We just managed to finish before the heavens opened.  We scuttled back to the car feeling somewhat pleased we had made the most of the day.

Via Ferratta