Rock climbing in the middle mountains.

The Index

The middle mountains, as the name suggests, are the ones that are not  the valley neither the high mountains - These middle mountains host some brilliant rock climbs whilst being easily accessible and provide,  objectively safe venues to enjoy some wonderful rock climbing. Plus there are reduced acclimatisation issues which are a consideration as we get older. There is also the safety factor;  This of choice of mountain area mountain becomes increasingly  important when there are huge spikes in the temperature which can threaten the perma- frost and therefore increase the risk of rockfall.

With all this in mind Reuben joined me for four days adventures.

On our first day we climbed the Nez Rouge D 5a which is located on the lower part of the Aiguille de la Gliere.

Reuben on the final pitch of Nez Rouge

Despite  Reuben and I having climbed and skied together for nearly 30 years, he had somehow managed to not climb the Chamonix uber-classic : The Aiguille d'Index.  So on our second day we retified this.  I have to say I was a little nervous because the climb can be extremely busy.  Yet we were lucky and shared the route with a delightful English couple who were ticking off the Chamonix classics.

Reuben on the Index with Mt Blanc as the background

On the Index with the Grande Jorrasse providing the background.

The forecast for our third day was indifferent and so we choose a climb that could easily be escaped from if the thunderstorm arrived.  Infact it is a hike with a climb to a summit followed by another hike.

The path to the Aiguille Pourrie not showing much sign of bad weather

We set off from the top of L'Index chair lift and walked down to the start of the comb de la Glieres.  We then walked up to the col, in complete solitude.  After which we roped up and climbed the Aiguille Pourrie2561 via the East Ridge. 

Reuben on the final pitch on the Aiguille Pourrie

Once on the summit we were able to walk off the other side and continue the traverse through the Aiguille Rouge over to Plan Praz - Brevent, just making it before the rain started.  We then took the gondola down to Chamonix.

Our fourth day was spectacular:  We drove around and up to the Gd St Bernard pass and parked the car outside the Monastery.  We then took the beautiful path towards our climb on the Grande Chenalette.  This is a varied rockclimb on really good gneiss, followed by a spectacular ridge traverse.

The path from the col du Grand St Bernard

Looking to the Argentiere basin and the Chamonix mountains

A truely wonderful place to go rock climbing and we hardly saw anyone all day.