A Few New Corners of the Alps

Peter and I have been climbing together for a very long time. Since the 1990s, in fact. It was therefore only fitting that he should spend six days climbing in Chamonix with me, a trip that happened to coincide with his 71st birthday.

Finding routes that Peter hasn't already climbed is becoming increasingly difficult, but there are still a few out there. One of this week's discoveries was the Dent du Fenestral, above the Emosson Dam.

The day begins with a beautiful but decidedly uphill two-hour walk to the Col du Fenestral. In warm weather an early start is highly recommended, as much of the approach faces the sun and there are few opportunities for shade. From the col, a superb ridge rises towards the summit, becoming steadily more impressive the higher you climb. The climbing is never particularly difficult, but there is enough exposure to keep things interesting yet most of the climb can be done moving together.

The summit itself is marked by a substantial cross and enjoys spectacular views across the surrounding peaks. The descent involves two 20-metre abseils and some straightforward scrambling back to the col before retracing the approach. A 40-metre rope is sufficient and, on hot days, carrying more water than you think you'll need is time well spent.

Mt Blanc in the background

It was a hot day. It would have been considerably hotter had we not set off early, though by halfway down the descent I still felt sufficiently cooked to warrant a brief immersion in a conveniently located stream. My legs certainly seemed to appreciate the gesture.

The other standout route of the week was the Grande Chenalette, high above the Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Like the Dent du Fenestral, it occupies a spectacular position and offers excellent climbing on an outstanding ridge. The route is longer than it first appears from below and rewards parties who keep moving steadily. 

Peter on the Grande Chenalette with the Gd Combin in the back ground

St Bernard Dogs at the St Bernard Monastery.

With settled weather and the July holiday crowds seemingly elsewhere, we had both routes entirely to ourselves. For anyone looking for alternatives to the better-known classics around Chamonix, both are well worth seeking out. Neither is especially hard, but both reward sound route-finding, efficient movement and a willingness to walk a little further than most.

In fact, the only day we shared a climb with anyone else was on Mani Puliti above La Flégère. The neighbouring party consisted of a French Mountain Guide who, after some conversation at a belay, discovered that he and Peter were exactly the same age. Once this important piece of information had been established, both parties carried on climbing.

Peter on the penultimate oitch of Mani Paluti

Even after all these years, it turns out there are still a few routes Peter hasn't climbed. We managed to find two of them.

Learning Before It Matters. This years Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust courses.

 For many British Mountain Guides, the Jonathan Conville Memorial Trust courses are a regular fixture of the summer season. The Trust was established in 1979 in memory of Jonathan Conville, who was killed on the descent from the Matterhorn after climbing its North Face in 1977. Its purpose is simple: to give young people the knowledge and skills to enjoy the mountains more safely.

The format has remained largely unchanged because it works. Participants spend three days in the mountains with a BMG Guide covering the fundamentals of alpine travel: movement skills, equipment, route choice, objective hazards and decision-making. Three days is not enough to make anyone an expert, but it is long enough to build awareness of the risks and to develop the judgement needed to manage them.

This year's courses took place during another  particularly hot spell in the Alps.  Discussions about timing, heat and objective hazards were never far away. The mountains provided plenty of real-world examples without us needing to manufacture any teaching scenarios.

The first day was based around Le Brévent. It is a useful venue for introducing many of the practical skills that underpin safe alpine travel while allowing participants to gain confidence moving on exposed terrain.

The second day took us onto the South Ridge of Les Glières. Despite being the middle of summer, we saw nobody all day. The ridge offered excellent terrain for teaching movement skills and discussing an important lesson of alpine climbing: efficiency and good judgement often contribute more to safety than any piece of equipment.

The final day was spent on the Aiguilles Marbrées, a classic alpine outing and an ideal place to bring together many of the lessons from the previous two days. Route finding, rope work, decision-making and movement on mixed terrain all featured, along with some excellent views across the Mont Blanc massif.

I ran the programme twice this summer with two different groups. In both cases the participants were highly motivated and keen to learn. Many were preparing for future alpine objectives, while others simply wanted to gain a better understanding of how to operate in the mountains safely and independently.

The enduring value of the Jonathan Conville courses is that they expose people to good habits early. Most mountain accidents are not caused by a single catastrophic mistake but by a series of small decisions that gradually erode margins of safety. Understanding avalanche conditions, rockfall, weather, timing, route choice and human factors does not remove risk, but it can significantly reduce it.

The mountains will always involve uncertainty. That is part of their attraction. The aim of the Jonathan Conville courses is not to eliminate risk but to help people recognise it, manage it and make informed decisions. Nearly fifty years after the Trust was established, that remains a worthwhile objective. Every summer a new group of young climbers and mountaineers leaves with a little more knowledge, a little more experience and, hopefully, a better chance of making good decisions when it matters. In the long run, that undoubtedly keeps some people alive.