A Few New Corners of the Alps

Peter and I have been climbing together for a very long time. Since the 1990s, in fact. It was therefore only fitting that he should spend six days climbing in Chamonix with me, a trip that happened to coincide with his 71st birthday.

Finding routes that Peter hasn't already climbed is becoming increasingly difficult, but there are still a few out there. One of this week's discoveries was the Dent du Fenestral, above the Emosson Dam.

The day begins with a beautiful but decidedly uphill two-hour walk to the Col du Fenestral. In warm weather an early start is highly recommended, as much of the approach faces the sun and there are few opportunities for shade. From the col, a superb ridge rises towards the summit, becoming steadily more impressive the higher you climb. The climbing is never particularly difficult, but there is enough exposure to keep things interesting yet most of the climb can be done moving together.

The summit itself is marked by a substantial cross and enjoys spectacular views across the surrounding peaks. The descent involves two 20-metre abseils and some straightforward scrambling back to the col before retracing the approach. A 40-metre rope is sufficient and, on hot days, carrying more water than you think you'll need is time well spent.

Mt Blanc in the background

It was a hot day. It would have been considerably hotter had we not set off early, though by halfway down the descent I still felt sufficiently cooked to warrant a brief immersion in a conveniently located stream. My legs certainly seemed to appreciate the gesture.

The other standout route of the week was the Grande Chenalette, high above the Grand Saint Bernard Pass. Like the Dent du Fenestral, it occupies a spectacular position and offers excellent climbing on an outstanding ridge. The route is longer than it first appears from below and rewards parties who keep moving steadily. 

Peter on the Grande Chenalette with the Gd Combin in the back ground

St Bernard Dogs at the St Bernard Monastery.

With settled weather and the July holiday crowds seemingly elsewhere, we had both routes entirely to ourselves. For anyone looking for alternatives to the better-known classics around Chamonix, both are well worth seeking out. Neither is especially hard, but both reward sound route-finding, efficient movement and a willingness to walk a little further than most.

In fact, the only day we shared a climb with anyone else was on Mani Puliti above La Flégère. The neighbouring party consisted of a French Mountain Guide who, after some conversation at a belay, discovered that he and Peter were exactly the same age. Once this important piece of information had been established, both parties carried on climbing.

Peter on the penultimate oitch of Mani Paluti

Even after all these years, it turns out there are still a few routes Peter hasn't climbed. We managed to find two of them.