Saturday, March 30, 2024

Crazy amounts of Snow.

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 The plan was to go ski touring in and above Gressoney.  The first time Catherine & I   tried this we arrived in Gressoney - There was no snow.  Tottaly weird experience.  Plus there was an insane amount of wind too. Getting to the "Refugio" was impossible.

Next time we were scuppered by Covid. At the time no one actually knew what Covid was - but it was kicking off in Italy.  Italy was seen as the epicentre of the outbreak. Hindsight is a great thing...

Anyway this time we had the complete opposite problem :  Too much snow.  This creates another headache because any chance of ski touring was impossible- plus the avalanche forecast was 4 on a scale of 5.
This time around Kate joined us too -We arrived in Gressoney at about 5 in the evening after having had a marvellous day skiing powder in a almost deserted Courmayeur.  Aparently it snowed a meter in the morning at Gressoney.  Our hotel didn't serve dinner so getting to the restaurant was a mission.
note the lawn mover that had been apparently used the day before.

The next morning we awoke to heavy snow.  This was not a sob story - it just meant we had to ski the trees in Champoluc.  




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On our final day together we still couldnt see very much, so again we returned to Champoluc.  The snow wasn't as good as the previous day, but there was still plenty of it.  Plus it is such an extrordinary area there is so much to explore.
The incredible Auberge RTA




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Wednesday, March 27, 2024

Father & Daughter working together

 

Ultimate ski instructor transport: Defender

Florence

Florence,my daughter, has been working flat out for the Ecole Ski Francais [ ESF Chamonix] all season but I was able to use her services for 3 days.  

We had a group of ten skiers who had come all the way from Vail Colorado.  Florenece was the youngest by at least 35 years! Yet we were both blown away by how good this group of skiers were.

This was their first time skiing in Europe and it was our job to show case the area.  
This group live for skiing

Not for the first time this season we did not have perfect conditions.  The weather had been un seasonably warm [again]. Yet as Florence and I left our Hello meeting, the evening before - It started to snow.
The next morning it had't stopped, meaning we needed to find somewhere to ski with trees because the visibility was poor.
So we headed for Les Grands Montets.  The skiing was good , the view was not.

The next day we headed for Le Tour. Here not only was the skiing was good but so to was the view.

Jim skiing of the back of Le Tour.

We were still finding un tracked snow at 4.00pm 

Stunning conditions in Les Jeurs

On our third day together, it was very windy which reduced our options, so I decided our best bet was to return to Les Grands Montets.  This proved to be a good descision because not only was the snow good and seemed sheltered from the wind, but this time they could see.
Florence standing by the avalnche warning and transciever checker Les Grands Montets.


Saturday, March 23, 2024

No snow in the Valleys because it has been stock-piled at the Gd St Bernard Monastery.


 

Huge amounts of snow 


It is true that low down in the valleys and lower resorts it has been a terrible winter for snow, but above 1800meters it has been a completely different story.  This would concurr with climate change predictions.
These roughly go along with the narrative:  As the atmosphere gets warmer it has the ability to hold more moisture , therefore more rain at lower altitudes and more snow at higher altitudes....

Anyway John Young joined me for his anual ski touring trip.  

On our 1st day Monday 18th March. The weather was uncoperative, it was foggy and snowing a little.  We headed for the trees at Les Grands Montets.  It produced a good warm up day, but it wasnt a stand out day.

Howverer on the next day we had a change in weather fortunes and we decided to head up to the Grand St Bernard Hospice for an overnighter.
Leaving the car park



We headed up to the Col Est de Barasson which gave us magnificient views.

I'd like to say it was all perfect - but the truth was it was uncomfortably hot and despite lathering on the sun cream we both got badly burnt.  We eventually arrived at the Hospice quite dehydrated.  We were glad of the welcome tea we were given.
After a pleasnt evening and a good nights sleep. The next day we headed out and up towards Mt Fourchon.

view back to the Col du St Bernard

Again it was very hot.  Although the views and the weather were fantastic the snow for skiing was not.  Infact it was a relief when it was over and we could put the skins back on to return to the Hospice.
Inside the avalanche gallery.

Finally the ski back to the car was on perfectly transformed spring snow.

On the Thursday the weather was indifferent in Chamonix because of the dreaded foehn wind.  Yet as always if you can, if you see Foehn on the forecast you head through the Mt Blanc tunnel where it is always colder and normally it snows.  This time we headed for La Thuile where we had a great day skiing off piste from the lifts.

On Friday we went on the Crochue / Berard ski tour .  This is a trip we had done many times together, but it never dissapoints.
John reaching the Col du Crochue

The ski down the Berard valley was perfect. With fast spring snow turns and not another person insight.  Mind you there was a small price to pay when the snow ran out.


Snow starting to get scarce

Even scarcer
On the Saturday the weather was not great in Chamonix - so we headed to Les Contamines, where once we got above 1800meters the snow was good and we enjoyed some excellent skiing .


Wednesday, February 28, 2024

The new month of Fevril

 

Aguille de Dru.

There is now going to be a 13th month added to the calander. It going to be  called Fevril.  It's actually going to be scheduled to happen in February but incorporate  April's weather at the same time as February's, but mostly Aprils.  It is being trailed this year and its not universally popular especially in the ski resorts like Megeve.

At valley floor level there is no snow.  The cross - country tracks have been closed and the trees are begining to show signs of buds.



view from the garden.

Yet above 2000 meters the snow cover is excellent.  Recent regular to ups of snow have produced some good off-piste skiing conditions.  The Vallee Blanche has been in good condition - especially considering how bad it was last year.

It was super cold when I took this photo -21c



Vallee Blanche looking well filled in.


Now of course the new cable car from what used to be the Mer de Glace has opened so that you don't have to walk up the many metal steps to the old cable car.   It is certainly a convienece but at the same time  it is an apocalyptic climate disaster that it needed to be built in the first place...

The bottom station of the new cable car.



Tuesday, January 30, 2024

50th wedding anniversary ski trip

Mt Blanc seen from col du Balme


 In this day and age being married for fifty years is an achievement in its self.  Going off-piste skiing as part of the celebration is possibly unique.

Fiona & Reuben celebrating 50 years of marriage.

Yet over quite a few years Reuben and Fiona have skied on their wedding anniversary with me and they could not see any reason to not continue in the same vein.

On our first day together we skied at Le Tour and combined this with a delicious lunch at the Cafe Comptoir in Vallorcine.  

On our second day we headed round to Les Contamines where despite the recent warm weather the snow cover was impressive- although strange to be skiing wonderful spring snow in late January.

On our third day we skied at Les Grands Montets.  The snow was firm, but because the resort faces north it wasn't icy and we did a lot of skiing before arriving at the "Cremerie"for a late lunch.

They are both an inspiration to anyone who thinks that they should retire from skiing , let alone off-piste skiing.

Thursday, January 25, 2024

End of an Era


 We traveled to Klosters to ski, but also for a "pilgrimage." We were there to say a last goodbye to the last remaining flying Granny who died in June last year. Sue Mills had skied there for over 50 years at first with friends then with her late husband and then when her daughter Jane married a mountain guide, me.

Looking out over Serneus towards the Austrian border.

It was in her 60’s that she had a renaissance and together with a group of likeminded women she formed the  "Flying Grannies."  Possibly the most famous group to ever grace the Klosters slopes.  They aquired their name because they use to do quite a lot of heliskiing in other parts of the alps too. Yet Klosters was thier spiritual home.  Mind you they were never seen on the pistes only off the  pistes.  [Pistes were too icy and there were too many people who might crash into them they said.]


My wife Jane and I drove from Chamonix and  met Bill and Henny at the famous Wynegg Hotel. The only place Sue and the flying Grannies ever stayed.  Sadly it was not possible for Mary, Sue's forth child to make the journey from Hong Kong where she lives.


This is what -Vanity Fair magazine wrote about the Hotel Wynegg:

The hotel was famous for as much for its formidable owner but also its list of famous guests.

Ruth Guler (1930-2015) was a Swiss skier and hotelier who ran the Hotel Wynegg in Klosters, which regularly hosted members of the British Royal Family. Guler was born and raised in Klosters, and inherited the Wynegg from her parents. She learned English at a British language school and found work as an au pair before taking on the management of the hotel after her father's death. 


She was the only female at the local ski school in the early 1950s, during which time she regularly participated in secret upper-class events. Guler also enjoyed watching the racing at Royal Ascot. She was friends with royalty, particularly Charles Ill as the Prince of Wales and Princess Diana who also liked staying at the Wynegg.

Guler was known for her no-nonsense approach to hotel man-agement. The playwright Robert L.Joseph described her as 'diva-like.


She kept the facilities at the Wynegg basic and ensured rigid discipline. Guests arriving with snow on their boots would be reprimanded and told to brush it off outside. On several occasions, she threw drunk guests out into the street, at another time, she refused to give a newlywed couple a double bed, saying *You are not here to sleep; you are here to ski". 


Socialite Tara Palmer-Tomkinson said Guler ran the hotel like a boarding school, throwing guests out of bed at 8 am and saying "Come on, get up!"

Though royalty stayed at the Wynegg regularly, she treated them no differently from any other guests, saying that "otherwise, they'd tear the place down". 



She loved the British sense of humour and the, particularly its eccentric-ity, and despite her stern demands Ruth was popular with the regular guests including the royals.


 In 2013, due to ill health, Guler retired from managing the Wynegg, leaving the running of it to three locals, a popular choice in Klosters.

She died on 10 February 2015, having never married, and without children.


«The legends of Ruth are legendary. Stavros Niarchos timidly asked for a telephone in his room. "And why would you want to ring anyone up?" In 1958 an article appeared in the Daily Mail headlined "Duke of Kent Stayed at the Cheapest Hotel in Town". So did the King and Queen of Norway, Sir Alec Issigonis (inventor of he Mini) and Tony Snowdon. They were all ticked off just the same, particularly Lord Snowdon, who chucked Peter Saunder's bedding out of the window into a snow drift.»


So naturally this is where we stayed.  Mind you the new owners have made some changes.  Like rewiring the whole place and sympathetically making renovations.  It also now has the best restaurant in Klosters.


Yet the most important reason for being in Klosters is that it has the finest lift accessed skiing of any resort in the alps and possibly the world.  It is consistently , significantly better skiing  than anywhere else I have ever skied.  Partly  because the best off-piste is hard to find without a Mountain Guide who knows the terrain well.




Once again it did not dissapoint.  On our first day the snow was good, but then it snowed overnight and the skiing the next day was sensational.  We opted to ski Sue's favourite run through the widely spaced trees in the Chalbersaas woods on the north facing slopes above Klosters.  We saw no one and enjoyed untracked powder snow.




  Sue would have been delighted that we were able to replicate her perfect skiing.

Jane Bill Henny emerging from the Chalbersass woods



We were also lucky enough to explore the whole area and enjoy wonderful skiing.







Saturday, January 13, 2024

Fresh Tracks Everyday


Annie,Jimmy,Eathen,Mark,David all complete with their "Batons d'Allain"


 When the group have  come all the way from Boulder Colorado to ski with you, the bar of expectation always seems to be set slightly higher.  Its made more so when its the teams third consecutive trip. David and Mark returned, this time with their children.

Blue skies don't generally give good off-piste powder snow, and  its just as well because we had a forecast of fog.  On our first day, Saturday, in an attempt to gain some visibility and ski in the trees, we headed through the Mont  Blanc Tunnel to Courmayeur, where there was no fog, just sunshine and very good snow conditions, the only down side was it was quite busy, it being a Sunday and the tail end of the New Year skiing.  This did not stop us enjoying an excellent lunch at La Chaumiere. 

The off-piste run back to the car was sublime.

On the Sunday the high season crowds were going home . But the fog was still around - so we headed down the valley to tree ski in  Combloux.  The skiing was absolutely fantastic.



Quiet unique and beautiful.

On the Monday the weather was clearer and we skied for the fisrt time in the Chamonix Valley, this time at Les Grands Montets where we had good conditions, no one around and a magical lunch at the Cremerie.

High above the clouds at Les Grands Montets

Tuesday we skied at Le Tour.  Due to the fact the top lift had been closed for several days due to a malfunction, we found our selves with lots of still untracked snow to ski.  When we had used this up we went on a 30 minutes ski tour across the border into Switzerland which opened up further swathes of fresh snow, and gave us fanatstic views up the Rhone valley.
Looking east up the Rhone Valley


The barrage d'Emosson



On our final day Wednesday we returned to Les Grands Montets with the aim of climbing up and over the col du Rachasse so that we could ski down onto the Argentiiere glacier- one of Chamonix's most  iconic ski descents.
Team coming over the col du Rachasse.

All was going fine until we actually got over the col, because as we did the light went flat.  Although you could see the mountains in the distance , it was very difficult to distinguish the immediate ground in front of your skis.  This is quite problematic when your on a glacier dealing with concealed crevasses.

In the end having seen over the course of the previous four days that the team were made up a very good skiers, I decided to give it ago and ski down onto the glacier.  At first the skiing was made even more difficult because there were was a crust.  Yet within about a 100 meters vertical descent the light improved and so did the quality of the snow.  We eneded up with a wonderful descent and an awe inspiring ski down the side of the Argentire glacier, all the way to the Chalet Lognon where we had an excellent late lunch.

Big Seracs on the glacier du Rognan



Mark & David about to thread their way down the side of the Argentire glacier.