The Houses of Parliament Sir Chris Bonington Honorarium Lunch

Big Ben

 It would be a mild understatement to say that this is not a Mountain Guides typical stamping ground, yet thanks to my friend John Young invitation this is where I found my self a couple of weeks ago.

UK Parliamnent 

John and I were guests of The Outward Bound Trust who were hosting the Sir Chris Bonington Honorarium Lunch.  It was in recognition of Bonington's life time support for the Trust's work and his uniquie ability to help them raise funds.

Having myself started my own journey in the world of outdoor education by working for Loch Eil Outward Bound back in the mid 1980's, it was wonderful to be a guest at this special event.

Members dining room

There were eighty guests, including Trustees, Donors, representatives from the British Mountaineering Council, plus two other British Mountain Guides, Iain Peters a former director of Plas -Y-Brennin[England&Wales national outdoor training centre] and Alan Hines OBE- the only Britain to have climbed the worlds fourteen 8000 meter peaks.

Lunch was held in the Houses of Parliament members dinning room.  It was preceded by a Champagne reception followed by lunch. 

 Between the courses there were speeches where Bonington was presented with awards for his work for Outward Bound. He responded with heart felt thanks.  Plus he commented on the fact that when he was climbing, there was no telephones on Everest where as now it is possible to call home from the summit.

He said he was greatful to have done all his climbing before the advent of this technology.  He did not outwardly criticise the modern developments, just greatful that they had not yet been invented when he was climbing.  This could be interpreted as if you still want a real adventure, then leave your phone behind.  I wonder how many of us would actually do this!?

Chris Bonington accepting his awards

For me, it was a life event, something I could never imagined experiencing it was truely spectacular with lots of sensory overload.  Then it was back on the plane and back to the mountains. 

Heading back to Chamonix

Swiss Alpine Road Trip

For this particular trip it was a case of packing the car with every concievable bit of equipment to cover ascents of big remote 4000er,'s to road side cragging shorts and T shirts.  

Charles Sherwood collected me from my house and we headed to the Furka Pass at the head of the source of the Rhone river.  It is well known for its wonderful granite rock.  The last time Charles and I had climbed here together was in 2004.

We headed up to the wigwam shaped Sidelenhutte.  It was originally built by the friend of mine  who I worked a lot with in my early guiding days:-

Martin Epp, a famous Guide from Andermatt, who pretty much single handedly carried the frame up on his back.

Since then it has been modified and extended out of all recognition.  It was busy too because it was a Friday night with a good weather forecast, despite arriving in thick mist.

Our plan for the next morning was the Gross Bielenhorn via the classic south east ridge.  We were away before first light, which was perhaps a mistake because we walked into a big boulder field [which despite head torches], was difficult to navigate in the pitch black. Yet we still found our way through more efficiently than the other team which started in the light.

Mind you we were eventually treated to a memorable sunrise.

The boulder field & Sidelenhutte

The climbing was first class and provided for some wonderful settings.

About 2/3rds of the way up the route moved into the shade and we found ourseles climbing in rock boots in ankle deep snow.

Towards the summit the route became more and more vertiginous and although never very difficult, it did provide some rather challanging route finding.

Charles arriving on the tricky summit block

From the summit there is a 25meter rappel followed by a lot of down climbing followed by 3 further 25 meter rappels followed by another  descent through various boulder fields.  All in all we were 10 hours on the go, by the time we arrived back at the car.  So a fine warm up climb.

Naturally we needed to now find ourselves somewhere to sleep and headed for Andermatt.   Yet we arrived on a beautiful Saturday afternoon which coincided with a big bike race.  Our tried and tested plan of " Oh we will just wing it on the accomodation" fell apart.  There was no where to stay apart from the "Andermatt Chedi". So it provided a complete contrast to the previous nights Hut experience .

The next day it rained, more significantly, it snowed in the higher mountains, thus putting pay to the idea of climbing a really high peak.  So we used the day to relocate to the Bregalia travelling over various alpine passes.  The most memorable being the descent into Italy via the Splugenpass which after passing through the village of Pianazzo embarks on a series of switch backs the like of which I have ever seen. Utterly terrifying.

We arrived at the gondola lift of Pranzairia, which we took us to the dam at lake Albigina and then had an easy 45minutes walk to the marvellous Capanna da L'Albigina Hut, where copious amounts of draft beer were on tap.

The next day we climbed the south ridge of the Piz Balzet

looking towards the dam and our route of approach

Charles following the ridge

Again we saw no one all day.  The conditions were perfect and we were quick and efficient with the whole excursion taking about seven hours.

We spent the night at a B&B at the side of the road.  The next day it was raining again heavily.  We used the day again to re position .  We drove through St Moritz, then put the car on the train through the tunnel  to Klosters via the Veraina tunnel.  Then headed towards Zurich before ending up on the shores of Lake Brienz where we found a lovely hotel right on the lake shore.  

Some serious examination of the weather forecast was now needed, because not for the first time  it was not being co operative. We decided on heading to the Fribourg region. More specifically the Gastlosen range, which I had got to know a couple of weeks earlier.  

By the time we arrived it had stopped raining and we were able to climb a pleasant rock route called Glenfiddich for William. 

Charles on " A Glenfiddich for William"

 We stayed in the same hotel I had stayed in a couple of weeks beforehand in Jaun.  The Waterfall Hotel.

The next day was going to be a  long day.  Our plan was to try the complete traverse of the Gastlosen range.  [ I had failed to climb it on the last trip not least because we ran out of time!]

The approach starts with a brutal slog up a steep wooded path which then morphs into a steep scramble. The actual climbing starts right at the top of the Oberbergpass.   At first its not too hard, but  it is exposed.  Then it gets very hard and very exposed [and polished ] Thankfully its not sustained and eventually you arrive on the top of the Eggturn.  From there on, the climbing is steady but it is intimidating especially having spent the last week climbing on granite.  The main challange is the route is a long way, with many pillars to climb up and around intermixed with a considerable amount of rappels.

Charles with the Eggturn in the background

Then when you think it is about to finish, there is a far from obvious key passage which is not mention in any guide book, yet is mission critical:

The key passage squeeze.

Yet eventually we made it and it gave a very memorable day on another classic  Swiss mountain route.

On the following morning we a woke to heavy rain...  We took a look at weather forcast and concluded that if we headed towards Martigny it would be sunny and dry.  Which it was.  We climbed in the Saliena valley before heading back to Chamonix in the late afternoon.

On our final day, we finished by climbing the impressive Asia on the Grande Floria above La Flegere.  We needed to be quick because although the morning forecast- the afternoon was for snow!

Charles on the final pitch Asia Grande Floria

At the height of the season it is still possible to climb fantastic routes in complete solitude

John Young joined me for his annual summer alpine climbing trip.  We have a fairly well established template.  This is to search out places that John has never been [exetremely difficult] and to find beautiful classic climbs that also provide a high degree of solitude.

Even in Chamonix this is possible and on our first day we eased back into some rock climbing by climbing high above la Flegere on the excellent Eperon Sublime.

Eperon Sublime

John pulling over the final difficulty

On our second day we headed of to the Ticino region off Switzerland, where they speak Italian.  This involved us driving over the Nufenen Pass and then down the other side to All Acqua, where we parked the car and walked up to the excellent Cabane Piansecco.  Although there were a few other walking parties, John and I were the only climbers.

Therefore for our ascent of Porcine di Cassini Baggio 2860meters we were alone.  It was a long rocky ridge which was harder to pronounce its name than it was to climb it.  We were able to climb 99% of it by moving together and only stopped when we had to make a couple of rappels off the 2nd and 3rd towers.

The view from the summit towards the mighty Oberland peaks was our reward.

looking towards the Oberland

John descending what was left of the glacier

crampons might have been useful

The real challange only started when we reached the top.  We were meant to descend down a simple glacier and pick up the path back to the Hut at the col.  However the glacier had practically gone which left us downclimbing through huge unstable boulders which were both tedious and disconcerting.

Some path!

We eventually arrived firstly back at the hut then continued back to the car.  Exhaughsted.  "Fortunately" it rained the next couple of days which meant we werent obligated to do anything and allowed us to recover.

After which we embarked on part two of our adventure.  We drove around to Switzerland and climbed in the beautiful Saleinaz valley on a great little route called Jardine Traverse. 

 It had the added advantage of it was minutes walk from the car. After we finished the climb we continued around to Villars with the intention of climbing the swiss classic the Miroir d'Argentine.  We spent the night in an African themed hotel called the Wafo.  It was unniquely decorated complete with Leopard and Zebra skin rugs.  The rooms were comfortable, dinner was good, yet breakfast didn't happen because the staff over slept.

The approach to the Miroir d'Argentine is steep and brutal through forest which was more than akin to jungle.

Our route was to be the classic Voie de L'Y.  It was easy to find because it had a helpful metal plaque at the bottom.  This was the first route of the week where we had actually seen any other climbers.  [It being Saturday and high season on one of Switzerlands famous craggs is hardly surprising.]

Mind you, we were quite happy to find other climbers because after the first two pitches there is a break in the route. I really struggled to find the continuation and it was only when I saw other climbers as a head of us that I was able to find a way.

Above the break the route really gets going and it has an excellent climbing on it although it is still tricky to find the right line.

In the middle of the climb, John cut his finger, and when he arrived at the belay, I was alarmed to see that it was spurting blood everywhere. Fortunately we were able to patch up his finger with a combination of plasters and duck tape. He did, however, leave a trail of blood, which must've been disconcerting for the group following us!

On reaching the summit the route is by no means over. The descent involves quite a tricky  traverses above some huge drops before meeting the normal path on the way down. Yet it takes a long meandering route back to the valley.  There is a faster direct "climbers path" which we choose to take, but it is very steep with lots of no fall no slip zones on shale paths which were impossible to protect.  Unimaginable if it was wet.

Finally when we were heading through the beautiful meadows at the bottom we came across a random wedding!

The wedding party

We then drove around to Les Diablerts where we spent the night.  We were in serious calorie deficit .

The following morning, Sunday, we headed to Gastlosen in the Fribourg region.  We climbed the excellent "Glenfidich for William" [ No idea what the back story is to the name]. The climbing was good but it did seem quite hard for its grade, or we were still tired from the previous days excursions.

John on the third oitch of Glenfiddich

We really lucked out by finding a fabulous road side hotel - The Hotel Wasserfall in Jaun. 

The excellent Hotel du Cascade.

 The plan the next day was to do the complete traverse of the Gastlosen.

Having parked the car we embarked on yet another steep path/scramble to the Oberbergpass.  The climb starts at the col.  To our surprsie we were joined by a local Guide who was as suprised as us to see anyone else.  It didn't take long for him to climb over and through us and he was long gone.  We climbed the several pitches ahead of us, which were far more difficult than we had expected and eventually arrived on the summit of the Eggturn. 

Gastlosen

1st couple of pitches on the Eggturn

John taking a "moment"

Summit Eggturn

 It had taken us a lot longer than we would have wanted.  The guide book suggested we could by-pass a couple of towers by following some yellow paint markers.  We found the yellow paint markers but some how got taken way off route and ended up on some very nasty ground. The time was now against us and when we found a convient abandoned rappel rope we used it to escape and headed down.  A party had evidently made the same mistake as us and had to leave what appeared to be a brand new rope.

The retreat

After a night of recovery spent on the side of Lake Geneva, we headed back to Martigny where we climbed on the crag Tara Club.  We did the excellent AGMBV.  This route can be found in the brilliant Entroment Escalades guide book.

Dinner Lake Geneva

Climbing is all about packing and unpacking

John on the final pitch

Lunch at Col des Planches

On our final day the forecast was poor - but we still had time to do the short but sweet Via Ferratta in le Buet , before it started to rain.

Thus ending a memorable ten days varied climbing.