Breaking trail up Mt Blanc with 50cm of fresh snow

The weather has been far from settled and coupled with lots of other issues it made for a challenging week which was only half successful. Dee Anand and David Folkman joined me for 6 days and below is the brief story of what happened.

After three days of training and acclimatisation in indifferent weather we headed up to the Tete Rousse hut and spent a pleasant afternoon relaxing and gaining more acclimatisation. Well it was pleasant for me and Dee but David had a bad night with the Shits. Non of us were sure why he was ill when weren't but we assumed that it would be some 24 hour bug that would go. So we decided to continue on with our plan, which was to head up to the brand spanking new Gouter Hut, where we planned to arrive early and rest up ready for our summit attempt the next day.

David struggled , but was determined to get to the Hut. He immediately went to bed and assumed with a bit of rest he would be fine. It started to snow big time. Dinner time came around and David was feeling worse and could not countenance eating. Hugely frustratingly he was not going to stand any chance of attempting Mt Blanc.

While we were dealing with David's illness , another group were dealing with one of their group who had broken his ankle. They had called a helicopter . I reasoned that David would be far better off if he could hitch a lift too so I asked the Hut Guardian if this would work. In principle the answer was yes. In practice it was a lot more problematical. Bad weather meant the helicopter could not fly.

David was going to have to endure a pretty miserable night. With nothing else to do I went to bed . No sooner had my head hit the pillow and the Guardian came into my dormitory to tell me that there was weather window and the PGHM helicopter would be here in 20 minutes. The Guardian was not sure if the helicopter could take one or two causalities because of the weight limit at such high altitude. I was asked to speak to the Police Mountain Rescue doctor at his base in Chamonix.

I explained what I believed to be David's symptoms and the doctor immediately triaged and decided that David was the priority and not the guy with the broken leg. It is not difficult to see that the guy with the broken leg was deeply unhappy about having his helicopter stolen from underneath him.

Both David and the other casualty were taken outside the hut to wait for the helicopter. It arrived in very dramatic style kicking up huge amounts of snow screening everything from sight. When it departed there was no one left on the ground and so we concluded that both casualties had gone. Indeed they had a mere 5 minutes later and they were at Sallanches Hospital.

Meanwhile Dee slept through all the commotion and was somewhat surprised when he woke up and couldn't find David. It was 2.00am and time for breakfast. 45 minutes later Dee and I set off . We were enveloped in thick cloud and there was deep snow. Critically there was no wind. At the Vallot hut 95%of the parties turned back. There was still no wind and I could see no reason to give up. The only difference was that there was us and one other party to break trail. We stuck at it and arrived at the summit of Mt Blanc at around 8.00am. We saw nothing!

Not this time for the Nose

Our attempt to climb the iconic Nose of El Captan did not get off to a good start. We left the campsite at 6:30 AM and immediately got stuck in a traffic jam. In front of us a car had hit a tree and landed on the roof blocking the road. No one was injured apart from the drivers pride. (The idiot had been texting at the time.)

It was not a good omen. We lost a good hour and in that time the heat in the valley had soared.

As the saying goes everything in America is big. The style of climbing in Yosemite is Called “Big Wall”. El Capatan is the best example of Big - it is over 3000 feet of vertical rock.

The climbing is completely different to climbing in Europe. The method is to pack everything into a bag and haul or winch it up after you. These bags are called Haul Bags or “Pigs” [because they can be a pig to move.]

There were three in our team me and my two great American friends Jeff & Faerthen. Jeff had made one of the very early ascents of the Nose 40 years ago. Jeff was returning for his anniversary climb and he had invited me along. It was to be my first experience of “Big Wall” climbing.

So we eventually parked the car and wrestled the Pig out of the car boot.[Or trunk as the Americans call it] It contained  36 liters of water, our climbing gear our ropes our sleeping bags our food, plus underneath we had attached a Portaledge. As it sounds it is a portable ledge which can be erected in minutes. When it is set up you can sleep on it.

All this weighed over 100 kg and it was left for me carry it to the foot of the climb. As approaches go it was not very far-about half a mile but still 100 kg is the most I had ever carried.

During the previous days we had fixed ropes to  the first 8 pitches to  the start of a feature know as the Stove Legs. These are giant cracks which could originally only be climbed by jamming sawn off stove legs into the cracks.  Fixing means we had left a giant 200 meter long rope in place so that we could climb the rope using special Jumars which clamp to the rope rather like cleats on a sail boats rigging.

Our plan was to climb the fixed ropes to our highpoint and then haul the pig. Jeff set off up the fixed-rope first. It was as he arrived at a small overhang that he called down to say that he had torn a muscle in his back and that he was in considerable pain. I jumared up the ropes to meet him. Jeff's face was glum . When he tried to sit in his harness he was in agony. We were going to have to descend and abandon our attempt.

Before we could get to grips with the disappointment (something that is part and parcel of mountaineering) we had the practicalities of getting our selves and the pig safely down.  It made sense to jettison the water in order to reduce the weight. This task was far more difficult than it sounds because I was suspended several hundred meters above the ground with nothing to stand upon. Eventually after some spectacular acrobatics   I eventually lowered the pig down to the ground to join the others. We were all disappointed but at least we were safe and sound and still in a position to try again sometime in the future.  And in addition we had not been eaten by Bears.

20 Years from our 1st High Level Route

The plan was perfect. We were going to re do the Haute Route exactly 20 years to the day since the first time Chris Boulton and I had completed it together. We were joined by Mark Gilbey, James Mitchel and Adam Syme. As the saying goes the plan is often the first casualty of war.
To start with the weather forecast was utter crap.Nevertheless we had our warm up day on Grands Montets where we found out that we had certain binding issues. Still its better to get this sorted before everyone is committed. We skied around in misty snowy conditions and with all our checks done we were ready to start the next day.
Contrary to the weather forecast , the weather was beautiful and the initial descent of the glacier des Rognons was a powder skiers dream. But 10 minutes into our trip the dream turned into Adam's nightmare, he fell awkwardly and broke his ankle.

I immediately pulled out my radio and called the rescue in

We had no choice to retreat and we retired to the bar for a beer or eleventeen. Sadly Chris decided that he did not want to risk the same fate as Adam and abandoned. This left James and Mark. They were keen to try and continue, yet the weather forecast was all over the place. So on our third day we drove round to Verbier and made our way up to the Mt Fort Hut where as always we were treated to a warm welcome. The thing in our favour was that concurrently the Patrouille des glacier race was scheduled and the Swiss army had avalnche bombed the route as well as sticking flags along the way. I felt that no matter what the weather was like , if they were going to run the race then we would be safe. As it turned out while it was raining and miserable in the Valley high up it was a perfect day.

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The traverse to the Prafleuri Hut was perfect and made even more interesting being able to watch the racers coming the other way. However the weather the next day was testing: Heavy snow and zero visibility. Nevertheless we pressed on with the aid of the map & compass. We arrived at the Dix Hut having seen very little all day. At the hut the Swiss army [who are responsible for the organization of Patrouille de Glacier race] decided to have an impromptu party which the Hut Staff got dragged into. This was all fine but they got so slaughtered that they failed to get up to make us breakfast the next day. The weather waa still poor and so we could not traverse the Pigne d'Arolla but instead had to climb the Pas de Chevre ladders and head up to the Vignette by going around the mountain.

So we had now endured two days of pretty shit weather. For the final day - the push to Zermatt it is essential for very good weather, especially for the final ski down into Zermatt because there are crevasses which would swallow whole Double Decker buses. We awoke at 5.00am to absolutely clear perfect weather which was nothing short of magical. Made even more special because we had really had to work hard to get into the position where we could take full advantage of it.

We were away first from the hut and headed up to the Col L'Evéque. Fifteen minutes skiing and we were next heading for the penultimate col -Col du Mt Brulé

This did not prove to be easy. Normally you put your skis on your rucksack stick crampons on and post- hole up to the ridge. Yet there was far too much snow to do that and so we had to skin up which created a few "moments" [In over 50 ascents of this col it is only the 2nd time I have ever had to skin the route.]
After this it was heads down for the final long ascent to the Col de Valpelline and the first view of Zermatt and of course the Matterhorn.

It was then it got really good , exceptionally good, the snow we found on the descent of the Matten glacier was one of the best descents of the season and for me that involved over a hundred days on skis.It was a very fitting end to the ski season

Long Time No See

I was delighted when John Young got in contact . We first climbed together in Scotland in 1992 and skied together a couple of times in the early 2000's. I was less delighted with the weather forecast for the week John had booked with me. There had been no snow for about 3 weeks and the conditions were looking decidedly patchy. Then the forecast was for rain!
Nevertheless I shouldn't have worried . It did rain, but only at night and high up it snowed. This gave us regular top ups of snow and fresh tracks everyday.

We started on Grands Montets skiing down the Glacier des Rognons but the really good snow was on the front face where we could keep doing laps and still there was acres of space.

On the Tuesday [after another top up of overnight snow] we ventured into the Vallee Blanche. Again we were treated to untracked snow and a wonderfully quiet experience.

On our third day we jumped in the car and drove around to the Col des Pillons where we used the lift system to get into position before climbing Les Diablerets

Our final two days we skied off the top of Les Grands Montets again enjoying the regular overnight top ups of snow.

Defenition of an adventure is when the outcome is uncertain

Chris & Lia and I set off from the 1st cable car at Grands Montets where we suffered a very bumpy ski down to the Argentiere glacier. We then cramponed up the 1st part of the col du Chardonnet before sticking on our skins and heading up to the Franco - Swiss frontier. We avoided the massive traffic jam by entering Switzerland by the slightly higher col. We rappelled down the slope and then skied over to the Saleina Hut which was guarded over the Easter week, seemingly for us!
After a very pleasant evening the next morning we set off at 6.30 am . The view back to the hut was exceptional
Our plan was to traverse to La Fouly via the 3 cols route - probably the best traverse in the Mt Blanc range. The issue was the slopes were very icy and the key traverse could only be done by taking the skis off and climbing above some intimidating cliffs before we arrived at the col des Planereuses

We passed the three cols in very clear but very windy conditions before finally making the very long glacier de la Neuve [and despite the lack of snow for weeks] we skied to with in 10 minutes walk of the Village and our wonderful hotel.
The hotel was good enough to give us breakfast at 6.00am and we were away up to the Col de Ferret.

At the col it was time to ski into our 3rd country- Italy and down the long, beautiful Val Ferret. The start of the descent is steep and a lot of care is needed ,then as it flattens out a lot of pushing and skating is required.
Fortunately the snow remained hard and our task was easier than it could have been. We eventually arrived at the road to see the 1st person we had seen all day. He was eating a cream doughnut and drinking a beer which struck me as an odd combination. We asked him if we could get a taxi and his answer was an emphatic no! The reason was the road had been closed for a week. He'd been stuck there [eating doughnuts] and was excited because a helicopter was coming to get him later that day. It all seemed a bit apocalyptic to us.
We decided to walk the 3km to the village not really knowing what to expect. Originally our intention had been to ride the cable car and finish our trip by skiing back into Chamonix via the Vallee Blanche and thus finish our circular trip. What happened was very different. We arrived in La Palud to find the cable car shut. In fact everything was shut- the whole village had been evacuated because of an imminent land slide. We walked into the police road block and some very excited Carabinieri and general Italian chaos which only seems to happen in this wonderful country.
It took them a while to decide what to do with us. Eventually and not before the Press had got involved[see1st photo] we were bundled into a Police van and dumped at the Mt Blanc Tunnel entrance. This turned out to be a very difficult place to leave from without a car and there was no bus allowed to stop. By chance I got into conversation with the Mt Blanc Tunnel Press Officer the charming Erika Noro. She agreed to take us through the tunnel probably to get us out her country.

The next day Lia's feet were shot so Chris and I decided to give our selves a "beasting" by climbing the Aiguille d'Argentiere from the 1st Grands Montets cable car. It is a huge day with over 1300 meters vertical ascent.

Off course this means lots of good skiing on the way down all the way to Logan all 2100 vertical meteres of it. I was pretty tired after this big day and misjudged how hot it was and suffered a bit from sun stoke.

Yet being too hot was not the problem for our final day- The weather was not conducive to skiing and after all it was difficult to see how we could better the previous 4 days , so we went rock climbing on the long route the voie Caline which arrives at the buvet of les Mottets where after the weather finally changed and it snowed on us...

4 days off piste / ski touring with a Tuesday rain blip

There is no doubt that our stand out day this week was a trip to Les Daiblerets. It is a bit of a trek from Chamonix - [an hour and a half] but it was worth it. Especially at this time of year when it is key to stay high because low down the snow is non existent or it turns to slush too quickly.
Francis and I started at Brevent and skied some good spring snow as our warm up day. Tuesday it chucked it down - the first rain in about 10 days. However we knew that somewhere it would be snowing. By the next day Wednesday it was back to fantastic weather - but with 15 cm of fresh snow high up so we headed for Grands Montets where we were not disappointed. We enjoyed some very good skiing on the glacier.
Then it was over to Les Diablerets for the skiing of the week. We arrived at the col des Pillions at about 9.00am rode the lift to the top , then skinned up to the summit of Les Diablerets

Today the logic said we need to stay high to stand any chance of good snow. There is no where higher than the Vallee Blanche. So while the weather was beautiful , the scenary as dramatic as anywhere , the actual skiing was disappointing and we actually had the worst snow of the week, although still a very good day. It was a pity the bar had been set so high.

Perfect Ski Tour

It is not often that pretty much everything goes according to plan. Clearly having 5 days of perfect weather help but in addition good snow , safe conditions, make all the difference. When I say pretty much everything - we didn't get off to a good start because Valdi Gudmundsson , the highly respected Ice Driver from Iceland woke up with a blocked back and couldn't join us.
So Turi and Agust and I sadly left for the village of Diablerets without him.
We climbed the mountain of Diablerets from the lift station of Col du Pillions. From its summit we skied un tracked powder to the Diablerets Hut where we were the only customers for the night.
The next day we took special early cable car reserved for ski tourers and headed over to the Audannes Hut. We had really good safe conditions and the bonus of a great ski down to the Hut

The next day we headed on to the Wildstrubel Hut where for the 1st time ever in a Hut the guardian sat down and eat dinner with us. On our third day we again woke to perfect , but very cold weather , traversed the glacier des Morts

and climbed to the summit of the Wildstrubel, before skiing fabulous spring snow to welcoming Lammeran Hut.
On our final day we left the Hut at 7.00am skinned up to the col behind the hut

From here we skied all the way down the valley from where a short skin took us up to the Cable Car for the ride down into Kandersteg railway station. So if you want a great quiet ski tour then look no further.

A week of two halves

Bill Mills and Greg Knott arrived towards the end of a period of weather that had been bakingly hot. In fact my view was that the Off- Piste lift accessed skiing was shot. The snow was awful. It was just as well that our plan was to go high and ski tour.
We drove round to Arolla and headed up to the Dix Hut , firstly negotiating the ladders at the Pas de Chevre

The Dix Hut has a new guardian and they have really upped their game- it was a really delightful place to stay and the sunsets were magical.
The next morning we headed off to climb Mt Blanc de Cheilon 3870m.

The ascent was far from simple, a combination of high winds and concrete snow and the need to traverse under some menacing seracs made the whole thing seem serious. Mind you the view from the top was worth it. Five hours up and 45 minutes later we were tucking into Hut Rosti and a second night in the Dix Hut.

Then the weather broke. The next morning it was windy and horrible. The decision was simple we had no choice but to bail to Arolla. We checked into the absolutely magnificent Kulm Hotel and then went skiing in Arolla for the afternoon where we didn't see very much and quite frankly it was pretty miserable.

On Sunday morning we awoke to 40 cm of fresh snow. Clearly the ski touring options were not good so we left Arolla and headed for the resort of La Tsoumaz where I hoped there would be good skiing through the trees. I hoped but was not sure because most of the snow had fallen above the tree line. However the risk paid of and the skiing was very very good. In the afternoon we traversed over to Verbier and got a memorable descent of the Vallon d'arbi.

It was then back to Chamonix to ponder the weather forecast for the next day. It was for snow. So if we were going to ski then we needed trees so we could see. The logic was to head through to Courmayuer [There is limited off-piste tree skiing in Chamonix] This plan went wrong when we exited the mt Blanc Tunnel because there was no new snow and the weather was clear. We almost turned round , but decided to suck it and see . This turned out to be the right decision because although the snow at tree level was dire high up it was sensational and because the weather was actually good we had some of the best lift accessed of the season.

First night in a Hut

This was a trip a long time in discussion and as the date for departure neared the excitement levels increased. The team consisted of Catherine Lewis ,Lucy-Kate Hunt and Bella Noakes. Between them they are mothers to 10 children. So organizing the trip around their families was a challenge.

We met and drove to Bourg St Pierre from where we skinned up to the Velan Hut. I was keen to choose a really good hut because this was to be their first ever hut to hut tour. The Velan Hut did not disappoint. Everything from beer on the terrace to the good food and the calm atmosphere made sure my team were content.
The next morning we set off about 7.30am and climbed up and over the ridge behind the hut before skiing the steep slope on the other side before skiing up to the col to the north of the Petit Velan. From there we managed to catch perfect spring snow where we skied down the vast comb to the old Super Gd St Bernard lift station.

It was now very hot. As Catherine suggested it was like wearing Ugg Boots in the Bahamas. We skinned up to the Gd St Bernard where we spent our second night.

The next morning , still with absolutely stunning weather we headed of into Italy before climbing up to the Fenetre de Ferret.

From the col we skied all the way down to La Fouly through some very technical terrain . Arrived in the village where we had a welcome beer while discussing plans to try and do it all again next year!

Seems like winter has ended we have missed spring and jumped staight to summer

The weather has been magnificent clear and hot. I had four days skiing with Reuben and Fiona who were joined by their son Antony who we worked out has been skiing with me for over half his life! He is now married with kids! It was good to catch up with him.

We had good skiing at Les Contamines skiing through some stunning foret scenery although I never did really find the perfect spring snow because it was very windy and the snow remained rippled.
We had two days skiing at Les Grands Montets mainly skiing off the top and making long glacier descents

Some observations about skis & knees

Skiing Knees. Things are not always what they seem

I ski a lot, over a hundred days a season. Most of it is off piste some times in marvellous conditions sometimes not. Of course this is a good job. But it is suddenly not good when your knees start screaming with pain and you have to continue otherwise you can not earn a living.

A brief potted history of off piste ski design evolution :

Skiing off piste has exploded in popularity over the last 20 years . The primary reason for this is because skis were developed for solely skiing off piste. They were much wider and shorter allowing them to" float" on top of the snow and because they were shorter they would turn faster. The generic term for these skis are “fat boys.” They acquired their name because they were wide under the foot and also because big fat and mostly rich people could now ski off piste and the Canadian Heliski industry particularly embraced them. ( the skis that is.)

The big draw back of these skis was that they were so wide that it was difficult to engage the edge. This is essential for skiing on anything other than bottomless powder snow. Off piste skiing involves skiing all types of snow , some of it being rock hard and icy to snow that is commonly referred to as "porridge."


Gradually skis were developed so that they could be used on and off piste and a whole new concept was born. The buzz word being " Free Ride skis ."

These skis were Game Changers because people like me ( Mountain Guides ) had a much bigger potential pool of clients because off-piste was now comparatively easy.

It was also easier for me too!

What then gradually happened was that the ski manufactures to a great extent cracked the problem of wider skis inability to be skied well on the piste. The manufactures made the skis torsionally more rigid. This meant the edge could bite into the hard snow and the grip was better.

What started to happen was that skis gradually got wider and wider again. The thinking being that you could truly have a big fat ski that you could carve on the piste apparently the best of both worlds .

Fast forward to earlier this season. I was due for a new pair of skis and as I get older I am always looking for ways to make it as easy on my body.

It is perhaps easy to see that it made sense for me to buy a fatter pair of super modern skis . This is exactly what I did. A stunningly well made pair of skis which the manufacturer promised were good in all sorts of snow but also I quote "allowed me to carve my way home on the hardest of pistes"

They were not wrong ! These skis charged through the powder the breakable crud and certainly did allow me to carve on the piste. I skied hard on them all week then one day I started to get pain on the inside of my left knee. Now this is something you get use to as a Guide . You learn to live with it, when you get home you ice your knees and stretch and by the next morning it's mostly okay. Yet this pain was different because within half an hour my right knee was hurting in exactly the same place as my left. Still I just thought “oh well these pains come and go.” But this pain did not go, it got worse and by the end of the day I was in considerable discomfort . Self diagnosis told me that it was cartridge problems. My Hypochondriasis made me conclude that it was the beginning of the end - my knees were starting to fail me.

That evening I went to see my physiotherapist ( about a completely unrelated problem : tennis elbow) but when he saw me hobbling through the door he asked me what I'd done. Meaning have you had a ski crash or something.

I told him I hadn't done anything that I hadn't been doing for 20 years.
Any way he sat me down examined my knees and then asked " have you bought a pair of new fat skis?"

"Er yes I said , thinking me must have a side line as mind reader " I thought they made skiing easier?" I said.

He raised his eyebrows and said " well that's your problem! Your new skis are too fat."

The Physiotherapist [who not only looks after me but also looks after the French Ski Team] then explained that it was a relatively common problem because when you put the skis on their edge( which turns them ,) because they are so wide your knee joints twist too much and you put undue stress on the cartilage.

This was both good and bad news . It was potentially bad because I had bought a pair of skis which I couldn't use , while it was good in the sense that there might be quick solution to my sore knees.

The next day I fished my old skis out of the skip and went skiing again and there was no pain.

I have discussed this with various skiers and it seems that I am the only person who didn't know about Fat Skis causing knee pain. Many confirmed what my physio hold told me.

A modern off piste ski might be something over 8 cm wide under the binding

It seems that once a ski is wider than 10 cm under the binding then this kicks off the potential for sore knees. 10cm is okay , but my new skis were 12cm . This 2cm appears to be the tipping point. Some of the really really outlandish are skis are 15 cm underfoot.

Needless to say I have been convinced. I have another pair of skis.

Clearly this is just my personal experience but it does seem to follow the adage that when progress is apparently made in one direction often there are contrary problems in another.

We Have Big Big Snow.

Just finished a week of exceptional skiing with Francis Bridgeman. It is part of the adage. "Give me bad weather and good snow as opposed to good weather and poor snow because [if you have the right mind set] you are going to get memorable skiing.
Last week was very good. As ever the recipe is to be flexible and prepared to travel at a moments notice - go where the snow is good.

We had two days in Italy where the one in La Thuile was "as good as it gets"

On Thursday there was a snow fall which was perfect just enough snow to make it good but not enough so that the Compagnie du Mont Blanc had no excuse to open the lift system. We skied at Le Tour - the best conditions I have had in the last 15 years. 30 cm of fresh snow which had fallen without wind. Plus it was relatively quiet thanks to Grands Montetes sucking up all the people who think that is the only place to ski off piste.
On Friday we found our selves in the middle of an almighty snow storm. We headed to Combloux and while there was good snow finally there was too much snow and it got to heavy and actually getting around became a real issue let alone actually skiing. still I nice problem to have.
So Monday we skied La Flegere - Tuesday Courmayeur - Wednesday- La Thuile Thursday- Le Tour Friday - Combloux.

A Sunday Ski Tour

Last weekend Catherine Lewis put a group of friends together. Our plan was to climb the rather unique L'Aiguille. A beautiful ski tour directly above Lavey Les Bains close to St Maurice.

It is a brilliant ski tour that leaves from the village of Mex. All you do is park the car put the skins on and head off up the hill.

Return of the Klingons

One of my Guide friends brilliantly described the name for this phenomenon. This is when you set off down some remote off piste run with your group only to find you have been followed by some idiots. "Klingons"

Chris Boulton has been putting his group of skiers together for 20 years and we again met for a weekend of off piste skiing. We skied off the back of Le Tour heading way skiers right and found some very good snow. We skied down to just above the Lake near les Jeurs and stopped for a picnic lunch. it was as we stopped that 3 men asked me where to go now.
They had just followed us. They had no avalanche safety gear nor any idea about anything.
When I told them it was our intention to skin back out and up to the lift, they asked what are skins? They took their skis off and immediately sank to their waists.
I took some sadistic pleasure in skinning past them as they struggled exhausted through the snow. Still they were considerably better off than one of the groups who followed me a few years back : One of that group fell head first into a crevasse and had to be fished out by the PGHM.

In search of good snow [and Cake]

I over heard a Brit in a cable car saying how he had been coming to St Gervais for 17 years and had never actually skied in Megeve. John Cackett and I on the other hand skied in La Thuile,Courmayeur,Combloux, Geittaz, Pila,La Fegere-Brevent and Megeve attempting to make sure we found the best snow and conditions which we mostly did.

Mt Blanc Tunnel is not all Bad

The trucks passing through the Mt Blanc Tunnel might be responsible for making Chamonix one of the most polluted towns in France but it has allowed us to pass from the land of no snow to the land of cold fresh powder. The off -piste skiing in Courmayeur and La Thuile has been wonderful.

And we are off: Start of the winter season

The skiing season started on the 9th December when Catherine , Bella and Lucy-Kate rendezvous in Saas Fee for an early season attempt on the 4000m Allinhorn. This ended up being a little too ambitious for the prevailing conditions. These conditions turned out to be little snow . What snow there was was like concrete. There were gaping holes in the glacier and we had what was a "jour- blanc" ie no depth perception. So instead of potentially ending the season before it started we spent the day learning how to build snow anchors, and the basics of safe crampon work. All money in the bank for our next trip in February.

Next Geoff and his daughter Aimme Gosling arrived for four days off piste skiing. The issue was there was not much new snow just beautiful clear weather. So it seemed like a good time to introduce Aimee to the delights of ski touring. We spent a day in Megeve and then Walter the Mountain Dog joined us for a trip to the summit of the peaklet L'Arpile.

Despite only blue skies for 3 weeks the skiing on the descent was very very good.

Infact it was so good that when Katie Locke joined me for some ski touring Walter and I took her back up there. The only difference was that finally the weather had changed and it had finally began to snow.